
Strawn's Eat Shop, Shreveport, LA
The 2011 foodie mantra is clear: pie is the new cupcake. As a cupcake purveyor I’m keenly aware of the turning tide in taste. Though I’m not too concerned. I’m pretty confident that the cupcake will stay around for a while, allowing folks bite-sized, instant gratification ensconced in a disposable wrapper.
But even as someone deep in camp cupcake, I’ve had my eye on the pie for several years now. It started in San Francisco back in 2008. I spent the year there—mostly in my office, but the few chances I had that year to get out from behind my desk, I used to discover the amazing food the city has to offer. And Mission Pies was one of the places I made a point to visit. Yes the pie was good, very good. But there was something lacking.
In my fantasy world pie is served at a retro, formica counter with a cheap ceramic mug of coffee (or tea) as an accompaniment. Yes, I want to eat great tasting, gourmet pie, not 3-day-old, from-a-freezer pie. But I also want that lethargic, small-town diner atmosphere in which to eat my pie.
So when I quit my job and took 6 weeks to drive across the country, I stopped for pie—often. The South knows pie. I’m sorry Brooklyn, NYC, San Francisco et al., but no matter how good your fancy pies taste, you will likely never understand that a slice of pie requires time to allow us eaters to sit at a table, bench, stool, whatever, but just sit and slowly enjoy one forkful at a time. No checking Blackberry’s or iPhones while eating pie either.
The result of my trip equaled much more than simply tasting a lot of pie. As I drove around the country, often through very small tows, I talked to people, relaxed, read the newspaper in whatever town I was visiting and slowly enjoyed my slice of pie at the local restaurant/diner/lunch counter.
My hope is that the pie fad is bigger than just pie. Perhaps we’ll all go back to taking a little time to enjoy what we eat. And maybe we’ll even wear fancy hats again while eating our delicious slice of pie. But perhaps this is more than our culture can absorb.
I’ll take a slice of coconut custard pie with whipped cream on top.